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There are many different kayak paddles, so finding the right one can feel difficult. The right paddle for your purpose gives you better technique and less wasted energy – and more enjoyment on the water.
When choosing a paddle, three things matter most: length (see our guide how long should your kayak paddle be?), model – the shape of the blade – and material, which affects weight, durability and flex. This guide covers model and material.
The most popular type of kayak paddle is the flat paddle, also called a Euro or standard paddle. It usually has large blades with a fairly flat shape.
The flat paddle is easy to control, often tough, and comes in aluminium, fibreglass and carbon fibre – a great choice for both short and long trips. There are two main blade shapes. Larger, traditional blades – as on our aluminium kayak paddle – are good all-rounders for touring, with a solid grip even in choppy water and good control. Narrower, longer blades – as on our carbon fibre kayak paddle – suit long trips and sea paddling with a lower, more horizontal stroke, and have low wind resistance.
Carbon fibre touring paddle, 215 ± 10 cm, 730 g.
Many flat paddles split into two pieces, which makes them easy to transport and lets you adjust the angle between the blades (more on that below).
The wing paddle was developed by the Swede Stefan Lindeberg in the 1980s. Thanks to its efficiency it has become the most popular model for fitness and competitive paddling – and it also works well for touring if you want more speed. Its cupped blades are designed to use the body's larger muscle groups for an efficient stroke.
With a wing paddle you use your core, hips and back more, while a flat paddle relies more on arms and shoulders. Blade area is usually 630–750 cm². The technique – a higher stroke, pulling the blade diagonally out and back rather than along the kayak – moves more water and gives more efficient strokes. The shape also has low wind resistance, which helps in a headwind. Before you have learned the technique, a wing paddle can feel less stable; once you master it, you get excellent control and speed.
A beginner can start with a wing paddle straight away if the goal is powerful paddling with good speed, but the technique is harder to learn and the paddles cost more. If you are unsure, start with a flat paddle and switch later. Wing paddles are almost the only type used in racing, and many experienced paddlers also use them for touring and sea paddling – then choose smaller blades of about 600–700 cm². See our carbon fibre wing paddle and fibreglass wing paddle.
The Greenland paddle is a narrow paddle used for sea paddling, touring and rolling. Its small blade area gives a higher stroke rate when you want to pick up speed.
It is popular among paddlers who roll a lot and do sea paddling. You hold the short shaft with your hands closer together, and the blades have no angle, so the technique is different – read our Greenland paddle technique tips. It works well for beginners too, though personally I would start with a flat or wing paddle. If you want to make your own paddle, the Greenland paddle is the easiest to build, and there are good plans online. See our carbon fibre Greenland paddle.
The most common materials are plastic, aluminium, carbon fibre, fibreglass and wood, often combined – for example an aluminium shaft with plastic blades. Material mainly affects weight, durability and flex.
Perhaps the best material for paddles, mainly thanks to its low weight – and since you take thousands of strokes on every trip, weight matters. Most fitness and racing paddles, and many touring paddles, are made of carbon fibre. It is strong and stiff, but needs a little more care than aluminium. Do not leave it in strong sun for too long – this applies to many plastic and fibreglass paddles too. Most carbon paddles flex slightly, which reduces strain on the wrists.
Heavier than carbon fibre but still light. Fibreglass has the most natural flex and is therefore forgiving on shoulders and wrists. It is fairly durable and withstands minor knocks; the blades are often made of harder plastic and are hard-wearing. See our fibreglass paddle.
An aluminium shaft with plastic grips and blades is common among shops, clubs and outdoor centres. The main advantages are durability and a lower price. They weigh more than fibreglass and carbon paddles, but are tougher and cheaper. A beginner will not notice much difference in material apart from weight – the blade shape matters more.
Before the 1980s, wooden paddles were almost the only option. Today they live on among those who love their look. They are stiff, mostly without flex, and usually heavier than other materials – although many Greenland paddles are light and made of wood. Angle and length cannot be adjusted, and the shaft is usually oval.
The blade angle (feather) is the angle between the two blades. If both blades lie flat in the same plane, the angle is 0°. Most paddlers use 30–60°. As a beginner, 0–45° is a good starting point; experienced paddlers and wing paddle users often choose 55–65°.
A paddle with adjustable length and angle is more versatile: you can set it for the person paddling, so the same paddle can even be used by a child and an adult. It is also useful as you develop – when your technique changes, you can change the length and angle too.
See all our kayak paddles.
