A route guide by Olle Persson, shared by Långholmen Kajak – the Swedish part of Northkayak.

Trosa havsbad – Kråmö and back

The Trosa archipelago is easy to reach by kayak or canoe from Trosa harbour. It is dominated by the two larger islands of Askö and Fifång and three large open bays – from the north Svärdsfjärden, Asköfjärden and Yttre Hållsfjärden. On these open bays the wind quickly gains strength, which can make paddling hard or even unmanageable. But the band of smaller islands between Fifång and Askö gives much more shelter, making that part of the archipelago easy to explore. Bokö-Oxnö, Kråmö, Grytan and Korpen lie like a string of pearls closest to the mainland. You reach them via the narrow canal that separates Hämö, just outside Trosa, from the mainland. Most of the islands are nature reserves. On the north-western point of Bokö-Oxnö stands Julafton lighthouse ("Christmas Eve" – officially Bokö lighthouse), named after a ship that was wrecked here in a snowstorm.

Kråmö is a good destination for a day trip, especially if you are not a very experienced paddler. The island has an old archipelago farm with roots in the 17th century. In the 1940s it was bought by a businessman who built cabins for his employees; today it is owned by Trosa municipality, which rents out the cabins. There is a harbour with jetties that is also served by a tour boat from Trosa harbour at certain times.

Start and finish: Good launch sites are Trosa havsbad, at the Rävudden beach and campsite on Öbolandet outside Trosa harbour (the island has a bridge to the mainland – ask at reception for permission to launch from the boat ramp inside the campsite barrier, and park as instructed). Another option is the small boat harbour next to the bridge to Öbolandet, and a third is Stensund folk high school just north of Trosa. The destination is Kråmö, and you return the same way.
Distance: 12 km
Difficulty: Easy, bordering on medium.
Map: Terrain map of the Sörmland archipelago, scale 1:50,000, printed on water-resistant paper.
The trip offers: An island with an old archipelago village, a narrow canal, open but fairly sheltered bays and a lighthouse.

The route

1. From Trosa havsbad at Rävudden, aim for the island of Hämö across the bay. You cross the approach to Trosa harbour on the way, so watch out for other boats.
2. Keep right of the northern tip of Hämö and follow its shore south towards the reed bed ahead. In the left part of the reed bed, closest to Hämö, a canal opens up – a sign shows the speed limit of 3 knots. In the canal you have Hämö on your left.
3. Out of the canal, keep following the shore of Hämö to the left; your bearing is now almost due east. Ahead you can see Julafton lighthouse and the yellow keeper's house on the next island, Bokö-Oxnö.
4. Paddle past the lighthouse on the same bearing, with the lighthouse on your right. In a northerly wind it can be better to paddle on the other side of Bokö-Oxnö.
5. Pass Brännskär, which has a sandy beach on its westernmost point, and approach Kråmö from the north. Here there is a large wooden jetty and several red cabins. Land on the beach just past the jetty; the buildings stand on the meadows beside it.
6. For the return trip, it is best to paddle back the same way.

The jetty on Kråmö.

The whole of Kråmö is owned by Trosa municipality, and the cabins can be booked through the Trosa tourist office. In summer the island is served by a tour boat from Trosa harbour.

A good first archipelago trip

With sheltered water, short distances and a clear destination, this is a great first trip in the archipelago – for example in a stable inflatable kayak or a double kayak if you are paddling together. Always wear a life jacket. Want a longer route from the same starting point? Read a week from Trosa to Sollenkroka.

Text: Olle Persson